Tuxedo chasing penguin on King Georg Island. All photos Creative Commons licensed: Gunnar Garfors.

Name a continent. All of them have a human history going back thousands and thousands of years. Except for the only uninhabited one. Antarctica was first discovered around 1820, and the South Pole wasn't visited until December 14, 1911 when my fellow countryman Roald Amundsen skied in and narrowly beat British Robert Falcon Scott to it. Antarctica is still rather hard and costly to visit.

But. It. Is. Totally. Worth. It.

How to visit

Why the airport was closed for over a week.

There are several ways to visit as a traveller, but only during their summer which occurs late October-mid March. I first tried a so-called air cruise in November. I was supposed to take a cruise ship there from Ushuaia, the world's southernmost city in Argentina, and fly back to South America five days later. To get from Oslo to Ushuaia can be a hassle. It took my over 30 hours to get there. Upon landing I was greeted by a phone call. It was the tour operator.



- A military cargo plane has crash-landed on the Antarctica airstrip and it is likely to be closed for at least a week. They have no heavy equipment top move it.

Alejo.

Bummer! The trip was in other words cancelled, and I had to spend a week in Argentina. Not that Argentina is a bad holiday destination, just not when I want to go elsewhere.

The second option is a full cruise. It will take 9-20 days, and you are not even guaranteed to set foot on land. Around a third of cruise passengers do not set foot on the continent, according to the BBC.

You can of course also hire your own yacht or airplane, but those people likely to do so typically read Luxury Travel Magazine, not garfors.com.

I decided to go for yet another option, and returned to South America a month later. This time I would fly both ways and spend two days on the unexplored continent.

Finally there
From Punta Arenas in Chile. I arrived there an hour before the information meeting any traveller bound for Antarctica is required to undertake.

We were to leave four hours later. But there was heavy fog on King George Island, and not enough visibility for planes to be able to land. So the flights was cancelled.

Again.

And again.

And yet again.

I was starting to lose hope. Frequently checking the airport's webcamera didn't exactly help either. There was indeed fog. There was indeed no visibility.

Until the fourth day when I woke up by a 7 o'clock phone call.

Driving towards the Uruguayan base.

- Please meet in the reception in an hour. Weather forecast looks good.

And it must have been. My group, which also counted two Russians and three Americans, was airborne a few hours later. In an old British Aerospace 146. We landed without problem two hours later. Zero degrees Celcius. Minus 20, with the chill factor taken into account.

Luxury no more

Stuck. Very stuck.

Antarctica does of course not have facilities for tourists, and I did not expect luxury or comfort. I was not positively surprised. We had to walk from the airstrip to the nearest research base, a Russian one, where we were offered instant coffee and chocolate snacks. People on a gourmet mission should bring own food. Actually, anyone should bring own food. We had 6 airplane meals during the two days in Antarctica. Yes, airplane meals, served on typical airplane trays even. And two days in storage, then microwave heated, is not a winning recipe. Awful! I would have brought my own food, had I known. Descent Chilean red wine compensated. Somewhat.

Next up was a peek into Chile's naval commando center where all ships in the area are monitored via satellite and radar. They have responsibility for any rescue operations in the area, and are of course manned 24/7. Their post office is not. It is open one hour a day, so time it carefully if you want a unique stamp on your postcards. It will cost 2USD a piece to send a card, letters are not accepted. And you have to bring your own postcards, none are sold here. Likelihood is however that you will get back home before your cards do.

Uruguayans to the rescue.

- Logistics here are difficult. Expect that it will take 30 days before your cards aare delivered, the postal worker said.

But too stuck to pull out.

Alejo Contreras Staeding, our very experienced guide, would take us to the Uruguayan base over a small snow-covered and roadless mountain in a bright yellow carrier, some sort of a bus on belts. He has skied to the South Pole and conquered Mount Vinson, the highest peak on the continent, 16 times. But even Alejo got stuck in the demanding summer conditions with rotten snow and hidden water lagoons. Half an hour of shovelling didn't help either. Our guide picked up his ancient Nokia phone. Battery life beats functionality here.

- Solidarity is very strong in Antarctica. Everybody helps everybody. The Uruguayians are on their way to pull us out, Alejo told me upon hanging up.

The Uruguayans gave us a lift to their base.

Amazing penguins
An identical carrier, only red, was with us within an hour to give us a ride to the Uruguayan base. We were invited into their common room with a kitchen, a television corner as well as pool and table tennis tables. Our carrier was salvaged the next day, after 4 hours of shovelling.

Of course I cannot leave out the penguins. The funny, charming and trusting birds that will give you photo and selfie possibilities of dreams. Thousands of penguins live on Ardley Island, but you will also see 2-3 on random beaches around King George Island. If they don't make you smile, giggle or laugh, nothing will.

And the carrier was dug out the next day.

Just be sure to also observe them in the water. I have never seen more able swimmers. And I am from Norway, where fish was practically invented.

A big and dangerous skua. They are alleged to attack baby penguins.

Not my favourite kind of book shop.

Travel guide books. I hate them. I hate them like garden owners hate smelly little apple stealing brats. Guide books reduce your creativity and destroys impulsiveness.  A lot of people use guide books to plan their holidays to death. All I know is that any such plans must, shall and have to be changed. So why make them in the first place?

1. Guide books try to take over your holiday
Merely following what some random person has written in a guide book is like plagiating another person's holiday. It isn't illegal, but man, how unoriginal. Live your own holiday!

2. You are not everyone
What you read in a guide book is hopefully well-meaning advice. Stay in the same room as travel writer X when he visited country Y and found the service amazing and the value of money much better than at home. A lunch in her favourite coffee shop where Wi-Fi is free and the coffee was made according to her taste. Or a trip to the statue park, a visit to the concert hall, a little bit of haggling in the local market or a pint of that must have dark beer in the particular pub by the park. A travel writer try to cover all, or at least many audiences. Everyone will get something. I am not everyone.

3. Guide books make you plan too much before leaving your home
When I arrive in a new place I want to do so with an uncorrupted mind. If I start out with a stress creating list of what I have to see, I have lost as a traveler. Not because planning is all bad. But because I base my holiday on what a random contributor to a guide book coincidentally ended up doing before me. Instead of actually going there first to see, smell, taste and get a feel of the place. That is difficult if I have already read about "everything" there is to do there. Which probably means that you have also planned your trip to death. Before meeting a single local person from there or getting a feel of the place. Just imagine how much you will lose out on just because you have "already planned something else" than those locals you ran into invited you to join.

4. Guide books are biased
Of course they are, they are written by one person, or at best a few, with their specific interests and preferences. I am not going to claim that anyone have offered goods, services or money in exchange for listings in guide books, but I would be very surprised if that was not the case in a number of books. By the publisher or the individual writer. Or both.

5. Guide books are based on short experiences 
I mean, what did the travel writer really have time to do and see during the 12, 24 or 72 hours she was in town? There are of course exceptions to this, at least when it comes to big and famous cities, but just think about it; How else can you manage to visit than by severly limiting your time on each destination? Rumours have it that certain travel writers have visited 4 or more towns in one single day.

6. Guide books are old
When is your guide book written, again? Seven months ago? Two years ago? In 2006? The restaurant and nightlife scene can totally change in a matter of months in some cities. Then again, perhaps not in Slough.

7. Guide books create queues
Admittedly not necessarily true if your destination is Tadjikistan or Chad, but nevertheless. Given that you use a particularly popular guide book, such as Lonely Planet, likelihood is that there are many other tourists there carrying it too. Which means you will end up on the same touristy route that most other readers of it are on. So, not only is there a likelihood for queues, they are not even made up by locals, so they won't even help tell you if the particular restaurant, museum or pub is a good or popular one among locals either.

8. Guide books hike prices
The owners of the bars, cafés and restaurants aren't stupid. (Well, I know one that is, but that is besides the point.) When they one lovely day notice, by an increased number of foreign visitors, that they have in fact been listed in i.e. Rough Guides, they will naturally hike their prices. Of course! Wouldn't you have? With brigades of well-off foreigners coming from nowhere into your business? I mean, travellers are often pretty well off, and might not mind or care if prices go up 30%. But locals do, of course. So, you will end up in places which accommodate for foreigners. And of course those trying to hook up with foreigners, trying to get you to buy them drinks.

9. Guide books take you to ghettos of foreigners
As shown above. I rather prefer meeting local people, asking them for advice on what to do and what not to. Even though I, as a shy Norwegian, usually need to drink myself into daring entering into such encounters. In the nearest local joint. Of course, you can always innocently just ask someone what the time is or where the nearest coffee shop can be found. Chances are that it will develop into a proper conversation, and kaboom, you have a local friend. Who knows "everything" about the town, village or country you are in.

10. Guide books create hostility towards locals 
It doesn't exactly make you seem like a friendly person, sitting on the bus or on a bench with your nose into a guide book. Instead of actually engaging with locals, asking them what you should do.


I never use guide books, although I admit that they can be good for getting some basic knowledge about a place, giving background information and act as a safety precaution in your backpack should you find that you are lost or without any idea of what to do. To travel without being bombarded with impressions in advance works best for me. I want to come there with a free and open mind. But to read up on culture, history and political and religious matters is good. That provides you with background info. And might help you avoid making stupid mistakes or insults. Or go to jail.

So what do I do? I try, when possible, to ask local people of what to do wherever I am. They know their area, sights, restaurants, cafés and nightlife much better than someone who pass through. There is of course one exception. People usually know nothing about hotels where they live. Why would they?

And some people would never even travel without a guide book, and to travel with a guide book certainly beats not travelling at all. Admittedly.

How do I know so much about guide books, by the way? Well, I certainly used them in the past. And it did take me a while to actually realize that I was much better off without them.

The exception
There is of course always an exception that proves the rule. The guide book series Inyourpocket.com is first of all free for download online. But even better, it is written by locals and updated several times a year. Unfortunately it primarily covers European and some Asian cities.

You may also enjoy: Lonely Planet's big travel hoax. 

The tower at Jeju Airport, South Korea.

The question following any plane crash, especially in the so called industrialized or western world where flying "should be safe", does however usually come out as quite the opposite.

Whether it is asked to gray haired colleagues over lunch, to your sofa hugging husband while watching the 7 o'clock news or entered in the search box of Google. Whether it is asked in fear or anxiety or just out of innocent curiosity.

Some traditionally dressed Iranian women take the ski lifts all the way to the top to admire the view. Then return the same way. At least they don't have to worry about putting on sun protection cream.

It is quite rare to see Bedouins come to Northern Europe looking for patches of sand to explore. Just about as rare as seeing Norwegians travelling to the Middle East to go skiing. But amazing conditions in Iranian mountains ought to change that.

Wanja celebrating her completed skiing course.

Skiing conditions in Norway are great and slopes are plentiful. And Norwegians are even born with skis on their feet, or at least that's how the saying goes. That is however clearly not the case with Wanja Buanes, a friend of mine from back home in Naustdal. She is 35 years old, yet has never skied.

- You should learn to ski in Iran, I told her.

Øystein dressed for the occasion.

She thought I was crazy. A lot of people do, given my travels to “strange” or less known countries. But I meant it, and she actually decided to come along with Øystein Djupvik, another friend of ours from our home village. Øystein Djupvik. Yeah, the guy who has driven to more countries in the world in 24 hours than anyone else. I was lucky enough to be designated map reader.

But enough about Europe.

Dizin and Shemshak

Sit down and enjoy the view.

Iran does in fact has several amazing skiing slopes with incredible conditions and complete with lifts, hotel complexes and a fantastic scenery second to none. The skiing villages of Dizin and Shemshak are located in breathtaking and beautiful 3-4000 meter high mountains only two hours’ drive from Tehran, the capital. Rather surprising really, given that you will land at an airport in the desert.

Wanja did indeed learn how to ski, through her own local skiing instructor. The 18 year old seemed older than his actual age, and came with vast amounts of experience.

Mount Damāvand in the background.

- I am a skiing instructor. My dad is a skiing instructor. And my mom is a skiing instructor, he told me at 3,150 meters above sea level behind big skiing glasses. I could see my own refelction in them. His bright coloured skiing gear was a lot more impressive than mine. I wore some knackered running trousers and a big black jacket over three layers of wool and cotton.

Dizin has 8-10 ski lifts of various kinds.

The best part was that his eminent skiing services cost less than 80USD for a full day. Renting skis and a lift pass each cost half that. Such a moderate price level pretty much saved Wanja her entire ticket to Iran, as opposed to have learned how to ski at home.

Cheaper flying to Iran than within Norway

Three local snowboarders.

Then again, flying from Oslo to Tehran only set us back 370 USD per person for a return flight. Not bad, given it's a 10 hour journey via Istanbul. To have flown the 50 minutes to the skiing slopes on the Norwegian West Coast - on a direct flight with a 50 seat propellor plane - would have cost each of us 495 USD. Not to mention much higher prices for renting equipment and a ski instructor - in much lower mountains and shorter slopes.

We had great days skiing in the mountains surrounding Dizin. And from the very top of the slope, we could even see Mount Damāvand, the highest in the country with its 5,610 meters.

Øystein 60 seconds before breaking a rib.

The only downside was that Øystein broke a rib while snowboarding.

- The conditions were just too good, so I was tempted to jump higher than I should have. It’s been 10 years since last time, so I am out of practice, he explained.

Luckily the pain killers in Iran are much stronger than in Europe, and much cheaper. He ate a few of them the following days.

The after-ski doesn't quite deliver

Me, chilling on the top of a café on top of the world.

Skiing in Iran might be world-class, but the afterski options - the parties at the bottom of the slopes - are certainly not. The muslim country does not allow the sale of alcohol, so the options are to bring your own from abroad, to buy it illegally on the black market or to locate somone who makes their own wine or liquor. We met some local Iranian snowboarders who had purchased imported vodka. They passed a bottle around to us, every time we took one of the seven ski lifts.

Too right!

- This is our way of protest the government, they said and explained that the government should be changed.

Young people are certainly not too happy with the current leadership and the rather strict rules on everything from drinking to dress code. Quite a few girls we met had ditched their mandatory hijabs, or head scarfs, while skiing.

What would you expect? It's Iran.

- Luckily, the religious police do not know how to ski, so I feel free like a bird up here in the mountains, one of them told me. And put on a big smile. That is certainly not unusual in Iran. But that she did so without covering her long flowing black hair certainly was. Her sense of dress didn't in any way indicate that she was Iranian. What she wore was probably picked up in London, New York or Tokyo. She could afford to travel a bit.

How about experienced snowboarder Øystein - would he prefer skiing in Norway or in Dizin?

- After-ski in Norway, the rest in Dizin, he quipped and laughed.

Traffic hell
On our way back to Tehran we got to experience the infamous traffic. Six lanes of cars challenged the three lane road to the limit, as the traffic very slowly moved towards town. No wonder perhaps, in a city that has 11 million people during the night, and 18 million people during the day. That is how many people commute, primarily by car and busses.

The capital has quite a young population, and we meet several students. They are protesting too, on Facebook and other social media. Most of them are blocked, but they have no problems getting access through the use of VPN. There the girls dress rather daringly, if at all, in their photos. Hijabs are certainly not at all used.

Maybe the country is in for a second revolution. The young population seems to want one.

The last one was in 1979, the year Wanja was born.

Too bad about the stubborn and conservative old religious and political leaders. Which pretty much amounts to the same in Islamic Republic of Iran. They ought to hit the slopes and have some fun.
They might realize what being young is about. And possible even smile again.

A little.

Always watching you, even in the café in the middle of the slopes.

Not quite Norway, but the road tunnels and the spectacular mountains  made us feel at home.

The view between Tehran and Dizin is pretty OK.

Øystein walking to one of the 8-10 ski lifts.

Not the most crowded of slopes.

800 height meters or so to the bottom.

Dressed for the occasion.

Anti-American propaganda painted on the outside wall of the former US embassy.

In Grand Bazaar, Tehran.

In Grand Bazaar, Tehran.

Outside Grand Bazaar.

Thorhild Widvey, Norwegian Minister of Culture, has confirmed that FM switch-off will happen in 2017. (Photo: Ilja C. Hendel)

And it is official. Norway will switch off FM in 2017, as the first country in the world. The government, represented by the Minister of Culture, announced today.

That makes today a day of celebration for the broadcasters. They have long been working with listeners, the government, retailers, the car industry and each other to achieve five demands set up by the government in 2011. All five had to be fulfilled by January 2015 to ensure a 2017 switch-off (see bottom). They were all delivered upon by good margin, yet it was up to the government and the Ministry of Culture in partiuclar, to formally decide.

Today she did.

- The digitization of radio opens up for a far larger diversity of radio stations that will benefit listeners all over the country. To listeners this means more diversity, a more differentiated radio offer, noisefree reception and a range of new functionalities. The digitization does moreover open up for greater competition and increased possibilities of innovation and development. Where the FM network can only accommodate five nationwide radio stations, DAB already offers 22 nationwide radio stations with room for another 20 or so. Over half the population does furthermore already have a local offering on DAB, with a big potential for many new local radio stations, Thorhild Widvey said in a press release today. She is Minister of Culture.

The press release also pinpoints that FM costs are eight  times higher per radio station than for DAB. And Widvey could witness that as many as 57% of Norwegians listened to digital radio daily in this year's first quarter, up from 56% in January/February.

NRKs Director-General,Thor Gjermund Eriksen, here at Radio Days Europe in Milan earlier this year.

- This is an important day for everyone who loves radio. The minister's decision allows us to concentrate even more of our resources on what is most important, namely to create high quality and diverse radio-content to our listeners, said Thor Gjermund Eriksen who is Director-General of Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation (NRK) in a separate press release.

Cars are important
DAB now covers 99.5% of the Norwegian population, and 94.9% of roads. FM cover the same population, but only 88.5% of roads (the average of two coverage models are being used for road coverage figures), according to Norwegian Communication Authority (NKOM).

- Most people can now access digital radio, and it is about time to introduce modern technology for this media too, as we did for TV in 2009. Given that the other demands have been met, Norway is ready to switch off FM, Torstein Olsen said in a statement following the launch of the official measurements. He is General Director of NKOM.

A switch-off is important to consumers before upgrading to DAB. 51% of car owners said in a recent study initiated by Digital Radio Norway that they will not install a DAB adapter in their car until FM is actually switched off. 23% of radio listening in Norway happens in the car, and it is important to cover all the long road tunnels with DAB too. The Road Authority or the police can in case of emergencies override all the radio stations in the tunnel in question to provide potentially life-saving info. The Road Authority is currently installing DAB in all tunnels longer than 500 meters with a certain amount of traffic, including Lærdalstunnelen, the world's longest road tunnel with its 24.5 kilometers.

Enough simulcast

Norway has the world's biggest DAB network, given its challenging topography. NRK alone has 765 transmitters that are needed do ensure 99.5% coverage. The private broadcasters need 190 transmitters to reach 91.8% of the population.

The switch-off in 2017 eliminates an additional two years of simulcasting in both FM and DAB+. In Norway, to do so is a costly affair. NRKs 2,000 FM transmitters alone cost tens of millions of Euros a year to run. The switch-off will happen geographically according to a plan agreed upon by the radio industry and approved by the Ministry. The county of Nordland will switch-off first on January 11, 2017, whereas the northernmost counties of Troms and Finnmark will be the last ones to lose FM on December 13, 2017.

But who cares, anyway? Radio listening is declining. Right?

Wrong.

Radio listening has in fact not been higher since 1991. Every Norwegian now listens to the radio for 100 minutes daily, up from 90 minutes last year. A lot of that can be contributed to more radio stations, better tailored radio stations, better coverage and clearer sound. Those countries that have not yet started digitizing radio might want to reconsider.

The five criteria
1. NRK needs to have the same coverage via DAB as Norway's biggest radio station NRK P1 has via FM. All NRKs 13 radio stations now reach 99.5% of the population, the same as NRK P1 via FM. All other FM stations have less coverage.
2. Commercial radio broadcasters need to reach over 90% of the population via DAB. They now reach 91.8%.
3. There must be extra digital value. A lot of extra radio stations ensure that. Additional digital services such as broadcasting of photos, playlists and info on programmes further ensure that this criteria is reached.  
4. There must be technically satisfactory and inexpensive solutions for car radio available, and half of the 428 municipalities and all 19 counties must have an offer of retrofitting adapters. All counties and at least 80% of the municipalities deliver on this criteria and the Norwegian Media Authority is happy with the selection of available car radio solutions. They say that there is a wide range of DAB+ adapters on the market, that prices have declined and that there are several new features. 74% of new car models are available with DAB+.
5. At least half the daily listeners must listen to radio digitally. 57% do.

Faksimile frå Firda.

Det er ikkje så lenge sidan Inger Fure Grøtting og co. oppretta ein underskriftskampanje for unge sunnfjordingar som ser heile Nordic Mining sitt såkalla rutileventyr som eit slag i trynet og som meiner dette gjer at det er mindre sannsynleg at dei vil flytte heimatt til Sunnfjord.

English version.

Sidan eg då berre var 39 år gamal drista eg meg til å ymte frampå om å få lov til å signere eit brev frå ungdommen. Det sa Grøtting ja til, og eg signerte. Fordi eg kjende på kor vondt i kropp og sjel det gjorde berre å tenkje på å skulle flytte heim til Naustdal og Sunnfjord med slik miljøkriminalitet like utanfor stovedøra.

Les meir i Firda, 8. juni (krev abonnement).

Ja, miljøkriminalitet. Mellom anna fordi selskapet skal sleppe ut 112 kilo kvikksølv i året.

112 kilo!

Det er nesten ti gonger dei samla årlege utsleppa av kvikksølv i norske fjordar og vassdrag. Ifølgje Aftenposten sleppast mellom 12 og 15 kilo ut kvart år. Men det er altså langs heile Noregs kystlinje på 100.915 kilometer, medan 112 kilo skal sleppast ut på éin stad i éin fjord. Ti gonger meir kvikksølv på ein eksepsjonelt liten del av området. No har Noregs såkalla klima- og miljøminister Tine Sundtoft altså sagt ja til 112 kilo. Og det gjer vel strengt tatt at det ikkje lenger er kriminelt. Sidan selskapet har fått lov. Det høyrest nesten ut som ein stor løgn-taktikk. Så kolossalt mykje kvikksølv at ingen ville tru at nokon (og aller minst ein miljøminister) ville vere frekk og uforskamma nok til å tillate noko så fælsleg i ein av våre fjordar. I ein nasjonal laksefjord, i ein fjord med oppdrettsnæring, i ein fjord med yrkesfiskarar, i ein fjord med dykkarar.

At heile prosjektet i naturvernforbundskretsar er kjend som "ein av dei største forureiningsskandalane i nyare tid" seier vel kanskje sitt. Ja, for kiloane med kvikksølv er berre ein brøkdel av 300 millionar tonn med forureina gruveslam som skal dumpast i Førdefjorden dei neste 50 åra. Så, kva gjer vel 5-6 tonn med kvikksølv frå eller til? At Klima- og miljødepartementet til Sundtoft sa ja til galskapen same dag som statsminister Erna Solberg var i Vietnam og på Dagsrevyen smilande gav ut smaksprøvar av sunn norsk laks frå dei reine norske fjordane til alle som ville smake gjorde ironien fullkomen.

Men nok om det. De har fått med dykk dette før. Eg signerte altså på eit brev der eg nærast lova å ikkje flytte heimatt.

Men no har eg tenkt meg litt om. Eg vil ikkje at prosjektet skal kome så langt at det vert aktuelt for driftige folk utan ferieplanar å i det heile planleggje lenkegjengar, at dei fastbuande rundt fjorden må begynne å abonnere på prozac eller at husmødrene og -fedrane rundt Engebøfjellet treng å kjøpe seg hørselsvern til kjøkenbruk. For å stoppe det heile vil eg nytte eit lovleg middel. Eg vil nytte lokaldemokratiet.

Eg vil røyste i Naustdal, og eg har no meld flytting til heimkommunen min.

For å røyste for eit av partia som jobbar mot fagre løfte frå eit "gruveselskap" med tre tilsette på eit kontor i Oslo og kroner null i kassakreditt, men som like fullt klarte å overtyde fleirtalet som sat i kommunestyret i Naustdal for fire år sidan om å godkjenne forureininga. Godkjenning vart gitt lenge før konsekvensane var tilstrekkeleg synleggjorde for både politikarar og veljarar. Det har dei først blitt dei siste månadane, mellom anna gjennom media lokalt, nasjonalt og internasjonalt.    

At eg flyttar tel berre éi røyst, men eg vonar at du, tanta di i Sogn, den tidlegare kollegaen din frå Hordaland og/eller naboen blir inspirerte til å gjere det same.

Røysterett har ein der ein er busett 30. juni, og med ei vekes sakshandsamingstid er det berre tida og vegen. Fjorddeponimotstandarar over heile landet er velkomne til å skrive eit lite stykke sunnfjordshistorie. For fjorddeponimotstandarar i heile Sunnfjord er det eigentleg ingenting å lure på: Den vesle kommunen skal uansett slåast saman med andre kommunar i Sunnfjord, så du treng ikkje ein gong å flytte attende. Dermed vert dette også historias siste kommunestyre i Naustdal.

Gjer ditt til at det vert 21 minneverdige representantar og at minst 11 av dei er mot fjorddeponi. Logg på altinn.no og meld flytting til Naustdal i dag.

Kvar neirøyst tel i det viktigaste ja/nei-valet i Noreg sidan EU-valet.

At eg har meld flytting til Naustdal påverkar ikkje jobbsituasjonen min. Eg vil halde fram med å jobbe for NRK si distribusjonsavdeling og i Nitimen på NRK P1 i Oslo, og pendle ved behov.

Det kan du også gjere. I alle fall om du bur nærare enn seks timar med bil slik eg gjer.

Om andre enn meg verkeleg meiner at dei er imot å dumpe 300 millionar tonn i Førdefjorden, då. Og det må det vere. Til saman har tusen personar protestert mot prosjektet i Oslo og Bergen medan endå fleire seier at dei vil lenkje seg fast for å prøve å stoppe heile prosjektet. Det er sivil ulydnad og kjem kjapt på rullebladet om politiet må fjerne dei fastlenkja. Med tilhøyrande konsekvensar. Som om ein liten prikk på rullebladet har noko å seie i denne samanhengen.

Kva med å heller melde flytting til Naustdal, pendle til/frå jobb eller studiar ein periode og vere med på å gje eit veldig sterkt signal til politikarane ved å sikre eit nei-fleirtal på kommunestyret? Eit nytt kommunestyre kan t.d. omregulere fjorden til friluftsområde.

For meir info, sjå nettstaden flyttforfjord.org.

#flyttforfjord 
#stemnei 
#Naustdal


   

The Førde Fjord (Førdefjorden), which may be reduced to a toxic waste dump.

The Norwegian government has authorized the dumping of 300 million tons of toxic waste in the fjord I grew up next to. This madness has been covered internationally by The Guardian, The Telegraph, The BBC and others. Luckily it turns out that the local 21 person strong village council can challenge the government’s controversial decision, and I have moved back home, after 15 years in Oslo, to give my vote to political parties that oppose this severe crime against nature.

My vote may help the political parties opposing the plans obtain a majority after the local elections in Norway in September. And, more importantly, I may inspire others to also move to Naustdal to vote, and to encourage current residents to also say no. An own website has been set up, www.flyttforfjord.org (move for fjord), to help explain the situation and facilitate for people wanting to make the move.

People wanting to follow my example are however running out of time as citizens get to vote where they have their registered address as of June 30.

The 300 millions tons include 112 kilos of mercury annually. That is almost ten times as much as the 12-15 kilos of mercury which are being emitted in all of Norway per year (divided on 100,000 kilometeres of coastline).

I find it incredible that Nordic Mining, a company with three employees and a bank overdraft of zero, has successfully managed to lobby local politicians and the government into accepting what will ultimately help destroy Norway's reputation as a pristine, clean and spectacular paradise. Not to mention the effect it will have on Norway's fish exports.

Naturvernforbundet, an environmental organization, has labelled the project "one of the worst pollution scandals in modern history", and I find it beyond belief that the project has been given the green light by so-called environmental minister Tine Sundtoft. On the date of her ministry's acceptance, Norwegian Prime Minister Erna Solberg was campaigning for Norwegian salmon in Vietnam, giving away free samples of healthy fish from the clean fjords of Norway. All featured on the 7 o'clock national news on Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation.

Oh, the irony.

A lot of Norwegians are opposing the plans of dumping the huge amounts of toxic waste into the fjord. 1,500 people have even stated that they will indeed join civil disobedience protests. I will rather challenge them to follow my example and move to Naustdal before the election to stop the pollution of the fjord in a legal manner.

I think local democracy is a better way to stop this as soon as possible rather than resorting to civil disobedience as a desperate last attempt, and I have previously written about this in Norwegian too.

Several Norwegian newspapers has covered my stance, and I have set up a website to help spread the word: www.flyttforfjord.org (flytt for fjord means move for fjord).

#moveforfjord (#flyttforfjord)
#voteno
#Naustdal

Øystein Garfors in Johannesburg, South Africa.

Øystein is my brother. Or one of them, at least. I have three brothers and three sisters.

Øystein Garfors (born in Hammerfest, Norway in 1976) is working for Flora Upper Secondary School where he teaches entrepreneurship, performs guidance counselling and manages a development project in Malawi. While not at work he likes to spend time travelling, freediving, mountain hiking and hang out with his family. He is married to Benedicte and they have one son. The family lives in Naustdal in the county of Sogn and Fjordane.

Contact Øystein via email.

Yes, that's it. The world's least visited country. I once ran around it.

I first wrote about the world's 25 least visited countries in 2013, and the post has has been read almost a million times, in addition to have been translated to several languages, republished in many countries, rewritten and plagerised. Two years have passed, and it is time for an update of what I consider the ultimate traveller's bucket list. 

Perhaps narrowly beaten by visiting all the 198 countries in the world (I coincidentally just published "198" - my book about how I ran out of countries - in English). 

Written by: Gunnar Garfors who visited every country as a hobby traveller, set a Guinness World Record by travelling to 5 continents in 1 day and beat a Recordsetter world record by visiting 19 countries in 24 hours. On Twitter: @garfors.

Click on the photo above to buy "198", by book on visiting random people on my travels to in every country in the world

Why countries are less visited varies, but location, travel related logistics, costs, visa availability, governements or lack thereof and degree of war usually matters. Figures on international visitors are often sparse for the least visited countries, quite a few of them lack tourism offices or governmental agencies that usually report such numbers. UNWTO, World Tourism Organization and the UN, have rather comprehensive overviews, but several countries have not contributed with official numbers. I have therefore, as in 2013, had to look elsewhere. I have used news reports, passenger numbers from airports and spoken to tourist agencies. Tourist numbers can in any case never be totally accurate as various countries count tourists differently. Some do for instance count tourists arriving by plane, others track those that stay in hotels. And there are always some people that claim to be tourists, simply to avoid the extra bureaucracy that may come with travelling on business. 

In 2013, country number 25 was Dominica with 73,000 tourists. And do you know what? Dominica is still number 25, sort of. Two countries are tied for number 25 this time around, with 78,000 tourists each. That means that you will get 26 countries for the price of 25. 

What a bonus. 

78,000 might sound like a lot, but it is only just over 200 visitors a day. In an entire country. Not really anything to bet your economy on. You may also be surprised to learn that North Korea is no longer among the 25 countries, with approximately 270,000 international tourists a year (most of them are Chinese).  

25. (tie) Dominica: 78,000 tourists (previous list: 25th)

Why so few?

The village of Atkinson inside Mango Hole Bay, Dominica.

A lack of tourists is one of the reasons why this is my favourite Caribbean country. The two airports here cannot take down anything bigger than commercial propeller aircraft, so most people will have to go to some transit trouble to get there. Unless they have a small private jet, of course.

Why still visit?
You can't really go wrong visiting a place nicknamed "The Nature Island of the Caribbean". The diverse and fantastic flora and fauna are protected by a number of natural parks, all accessible to you. Do also expect volcanic peaks and Boiling Lake. It is the second-largest hot spring in the world, only beaten by Frying Pan Lake in New Zealand.

What else?
Rumours have that the lack of mainstream tourism makes Dominica one of the favourite hot spots for a number of American celebrities. Don't be surprised if Brad Pitt says hi in Pagua Bay Bar & Grill. Then again, you might prefer to meet his wife instead.

Source: UNWTO, 2013

25. (tie) East Timor: 78,000 tourists (18th) 

Why so few?

Creative Commons licenced by yeowatzup.

I bet you do not even know which continent it's in. East Timor is not very well connected to the rest of the world, and you have probably never even heard about any of the airlines that fly there.

Why still visit?
The diving is absolutely world-class! And you can stay in luxury hotels elsewhere. I slept in a windowless shed. With a hyperactive rooster nearby.

What else?
You will get your visa on arrival in the airport. Nice and easy. And do not overlook the opportunity to go by mikrolet, or minibus, at least once. They are the veins of the country and go virtually everywhere. Just don't expect them to be on time.

Source: UNWTO, 2013.

23. (tie) Central African Republic: 71,000 (23th)

22. Djibouti: 63,000 (21st)

Why so few?

Creative Commons licenced by Charles Roffey.

You mean you actually know where this country is? A lot of French soldiers certainly do, they are based there and fill up the town every weekend. Expect indecent proposals on town.

Why still visit?
Albeit extremelly dry, the three regions of the country are diverse and worth a visit. Go scuba diving from the coastal plain and enjoy trips to the volcanic plateaus in the central and southern parts of the country and the mountain ranges in the north.

What else?
This is one hot part of the world. Bring sun protection! You might also want to go swimming just outside the entrance to the Red Sea to cool down or to visit Lake Assal which is 157 meters below sea level, and Africa's lowest point.  The very dry country was used as "The Forbidden Zone" in Planet of the Apes. Djibouti is the easiest point from which to enter Somaliland, a state within Somalia.

Source: UN, 2013

21. Liechtenstein: 60,000 (22nd)

Why so few?

Øystein Djupvik, Tay-young Pak and I finished our world record in Liechtestein by visiting 19 countries in just one day.

There is a hell of a lot more action in both Austria and Switzerland, the two only neighbouring countries. Liechtenstein is tiny, and there is virtually nothing going on there at night.

Why still visit?
The mountainous scenery is truly fantastic! This is, after all, in the Alps, and we are talking about one of only two double landlocked countries in the world. Guess which one is the other. A hint? It is 2,806 times bigger.

What else?
Liechtenstein is the world's biggest producer of false teeth. Didn't you always want to know?

Source: UNWTO, 2013

20. Guinea: 56,000 (new)

Why so few?

The sunset from Conakry isn't all bad.

The infrastructure in this beautiful and lush country is not quite up to speed, although several international airlines actually fly to Conakry, the capital. Recent ebola outbreaks didn't exactly do the country any favours, either.

Why still visit?
The sunset experienced on the beaches is second to none. You might in particular want to experience it on weekends when loads of locals enjoy barbequed fish or meat and big brown bottles of Guiluxe, the local beer.

What else?
You are likely to experience heart-warming hospitality. Leave your shyness at home. Or drink a few Guiuluxe to combat it. People will approach and talk to you. Your expected response is a smile.

Source: UN, 2013

19. Tonga: 45,000 (19th)

Why so few? 

Tonga action.

It is one of the very last absolute monarchies in the world. And very few people can neither spell Nuku'alofa, the capital, nor Fua'amotu, the international airport, so buying a ticket may be tricky. Opening a door may be too. To some people.

Why still visit?
The people in the Pacific are renowned for their hospitality. That is of course great in itself, but even better when you know that the Tongans love their feasts with massive barbeques, drinking and dancing.

What else?
One of the most unreal, secluded and beautiful beaches I have ever visited is in Tonga. Where exactly? Well, you might find out if you read "198" - my book on my visits to every country in the world.

Read more: Tonga is best explored on two wheels.
Source: UN, 2013

18. Sierra Leone: 44,000 (20th)

Why so few?

Quality junk, anyone?

There are three realistic options getting from the only international airport to Freetown, the capital. They all include a boat on rough seas, and the risk of transforming your breakfast into fish feed.

Why still visit?
The Land of the Mountain Lions will appeal to all your senses with an incredible diversity and an unmatched scenery. The temperature is pretty perfect too, it is rarely below 24 or above 30 degrees Celcius.

What else?
They speak English in Sierra Leone, so you will get by easily. Its colonial past helps explain place names such as Waterloo, Man of War Bay, Pirate Bay, New England and Destruction Bay. Do note that this is the second country on this list to have had recent ebola outbreaks.


Read more: Land of the Mountain Lions.

Source: UN, 2014 

16. (tie) Federated States of Micronesia: 35,000 (12th)

Why so few?

This little fella wanted to hang out(side) during my dinner.

The country is often confused with Micronesia - the subregion of Oceania which also includes Nauru, Kiribati, Marshall Islands and Palau. And only United's Island Hopper service and Nauru's Our Airline will fly you to the country.

Why still visit?
Micronesia will blow your mind away when it comes to diving and surfing. There is a surfcamp in Pohnpei. Don't expect a crowd. Divers will have a field day, especially in the state of Yap, where there are dozens and dozens of diveable wreckages from WWII.

What else?
The number of tourists seem rather low, but keep in mind that there are only slightly over 100,000 inhabitants there. Visitors that count for 35 percent of the population is still a bit. Then again, there is enough mouth-watering seafood for everyone. The country does after all encompass as many as 607 islands.


Source: UN, 2014

16. (tie) Mauritania: 35,000 (13th)

Why so few?

My ride to Mauritania.

75 percent of the country is desert, and it's spreading. Sand is more interesting than most people think, but still.

Why still visit?
This is photography heaven. Just check out the blogpost of Mitchell Kanashkevich. Yeah, he slightly outshoots me with his camera.

What else?
Credit cards are accepted vitually nowhere. I brought US dollars to pay for my goat meat in a small desert town. Some people come to the country to photograph a famous ship graveyard to the north, others take the opportunity to ride one of the longest trains in the world transporting iron ore on 200 or so cars. Jumping onto one of them is usually ok, just don't wear a white dress.

Source: UN, 2103, estimate based on tourism expenditure

15.  Solomon Islands: 24,400 (11th)

Why so few?

Creative Commons licenced by whl.travel.

It is much less famous than neighbouring Papa New-Guinea, Vanuatu, New Caledonia and of course Australia.

Why still visit?
It shouldn't be less famous at all. Visit secluded beaches, rainforests with waterfalls, volcanoes and world-class lagoons where you can experience some of the least dived spots in the world. You should also go to the outdoor fish market in capital Honiara, buy a few kinds of super fresh fish and have one of the fish mongers cut them into pieces and you have a truly incredible and unusual sashimi meal by the sea.

What else?
Malaria is actually a real threat here. Act accordingly. And fauna lovers are obliged to visit. There are over 230 types of tropical flowers here. Just don't expect to find them all in one spot, the country consists of over 900 islands.

Source: UNWTO, 2013

14. Liberia: 24,000 (new)

Why so few?

Wikimedia Commons licenced by Erik Hersman.

What positive news did you last hear from Liberia, again? Neither stories on civil wars or ebola outbreaks qualify. Ellen Johnson Sirleaf was however elected the first female president in Africa in 2006. She was reelected 5 years later, the same year she received the Nobel Peace Prize.

Why still visit?
There are a lot of beaches around Monrovia, and the town of Robertsport has some of the best surfing in Africa. And do not forget to experience the ace music scene. One of the music styles is known as hip co. Expect a mixture of hip hop and Liberian English.

What else?
Liberia was primarily founded by freed American slaves, and the capital Monrovia is named after James Monroe. The fifth president of the USA worked hard to help establish the new African country. It may not come as much of a surprise that there is a ban on any form of slavery in the constitution.

Source: UN, 2012, estimate based on tourism expenditure. 

13. Comoros: 21,000 (9th)

Why so few?

These guys crushed me in outdoor fussball.

Only 800,000 people live on the island nation, which has experienced 20 coups or attempted coups since 1975. That's when the country gained independence from France.

Why still visit?
How can you resist a country with an airline called Ewa Air? Ewa means "yes" in Shikomor (Comorian). The countries offer great trekking to volcanoes, diving and sailing. And do visit the colourful markets in Moroni.

What else?
The African country is the world’s largest manufacturer of ylang-ylang, an oil that is used in perfume. The world smells better thanks to the Comoros.

Source: African Statistical Yearbook, 2014

12. Afghanistan: 13,300 (10th)

Why so few?

Expect to see a lot of donkeys at work in Afghanistan.

Regular bombings, terrorist attacks and being the home turf of Taliban might have something to do with it. War zone tourism never really did catch on.

Why still visit?
The wild mountains, the beautiful scenery, the incredible history and the amazing people. And why not take the opportunity to try on a real burqa in one of the burqa shops. That ought to make you sympathize a little bit with burqa wearing women world-wide.

What else?
Just make sure that you have a visa to your next destination after Afghanistan. We did not and had to stand 13 times in extremelly long and demotivating queues outside the Iranian consulate in Herat before we finally secured our permit out again. It only took three days thanks to my outrageous queue jumping which made the entire visa seeking community in Herat less than happy. I do hereby apologize.

Read more: "There are no tourists in Afghanistan" 
Sources: New York Times, 2012, adjusted by UN tourism expenditure numbers, 2013 

11. São Tomé and Príncipe: 10,000 (8th)

Why so few?

Fishermen outside Sao Tome.

It might still take a while to get there. 

Why still visit?
There is a reason for the country's slogan "A well kept secret!" - expect impressive Portugese colonial architecture, colourful slums on the outskirt of São Tomé, great fishing, undervalued whale watching, pristine beaches and ace trekking opportunities. And did I mention their heart-warming hospitality?

What else?
The country used to be the biggest supplier of cocoa. I am not a chocolatier, but they claim to have the world's best dark chocolate, and may very well be right. Thanks to Claudio Corallo, aka. "The chocolate king of São Tomé". Be aware that you need a visa in advance to be let into the country, or find yourself returned by the same mode of transport that got you there. Another 40 hours on a boat would not have been very welcome, in my case. Luckily, you can now get a visa in advance from your living room. Via email.

Read more: From Libreville to Sao Tome by boat
Source: African Statistical Yearbook, 2014

10. Turkmenistan: 8,697 (7th)

Source: Statistical Yearbook of Turkmenistan, 2011

9. Guinea-Bissau: 7,500 (14th)

Why so few?
Infrastructure is rubbish and few airlines fly there. TAP Portugal even suspended their flights to and from Bissau after local police forced the pilots to bring 74 Syrian refugees to Lisbon in 2013.

Why still visit?
You just have to visit the Bijagos Archipelago of some twenty islands outside the capital. The oysters there are divine. Just do not expect any signs of modern life.

What else?
Do not miss out on old Portugese architecture or cooking inspired by the former colonist. To get in fast and easy, pick up your visa at the consulate in Ziguinchor in Senegal, just across the border. The operation will set you back 5 minutes. You are then not far from Varela, a tiny coastal village in a national park to the very north of Guinea-Bissau. Expect close to zero tourists, despite an Italian hotel with food to match.

Source: UN, 2012, estimate based on tourism expenditure

8. Libya: 6,250 (15th)

Why so few?

Tobruk, Libya.

Gaddafi may be gone, but his legacy lives on through embassy attacks and bombings. And it didn't help much that Tripoli International Airport closed down after bombings in 2014, either. All flights were suspended, and there are now only a handful of flights to and from smaller Mitiga International Airport. You mean you wouldn't fly with Libyan Airlines, Afriqiyah Airways or Buraq Air? Well, neither will most tourists.

Why still visit?
You can finally get a visa on arrival. And there is plenty on offer, although you may want to wait until the security situation improves.

What else?
There is hope, or so the Libyan government believes. I mean, they actually do have a Minister of Tourism. Ms. Ikram Bash Imam must have one of the most challenging jobs in the world.

Source: UN, 2010, estimate based on tourism expenditure and stipulated decline, 2014

7. Kiribati: 6,000 (4th)

Why so few?

Meet Kaure, allegedly the only taxi driver in Kiribati.

1. Virtually no one has even heard about the Pacific paradise. 2. Fewer still knows how to pronounce the name of the country.

Why still visit?
There are loads of possibilities to fly to Kiribati. You can take a plane from Nauru or Marshall Islands once every two weeks. Yeah, or from slightly more famous Fiji, which has two weekly departures to South Tawara, the capital. And you can of course visit Christmas Islands from Fiji or Hawaii. It is in theory 6 hours by plane between Christmas Island and South Tawara, but the islands are not connected by flight.

What else?
The letter “s” does not exist in Kiribati, but the sound “s” does. So, to pronounce “s” you write “ti” or “tu”. “Kiribati” is therefore pronounced “Kiribass”. “T” followed by any other letter than “i” or “u” is pronounced “t” as normal. Piece of cake.

Read more: A country less travelled
Source: UNWTO, 2013

6. Equatorial Guinea: 5,700 (6th)

Why so few?
This is the worst country on this list to get a visa to, unless you are actually a US citizen. They are excempt. You mean your are not a US citizen? Do accept my apologies. You will have to go through agonizing bureaucratic pain. Or not ever get too see Equatorial Guinea.

Why still visit?
Equatorial Guinea is without a doubt bucket list material. And there is very little tourism infrastructure here, so you will be snorkeling all by yourself from one of the nice beaches, given that you bring your own fins and mask.

What else?
Do not take any photos, unless you fancy sleeping in a prison cell or bribing a police officer. The country is ruled by Dictator Teodoro Obiang Nguema Mbasogo, although he prefers President as his title. The distribution of the massive oil wealth is extremelly unequal, it has one of the world's worst human rights track records and is allegedly very involved in human trafficking.

Read more: The 15 hardest countries to visit
Source: Wikipedia, estimate based on airport arrivals, 2009, then stipulated, 2014

5. South Sudan: 5,500 (new)

Why so few?

Women in front of the White Nile.

There is a civil war in the newest country in the world, and tourists are not commonplace. James, the receptionist in my hotel, virtually died from excessive laughter when I told him I was in Juba as a tourist.

Why still visit?
James is probably still laughing. And he is particularly generous, even in the hotel bar, when he is in a good mood.

What else?
Photography is actually illegal in South Sudan. So, leave your phone in your pocket or excercise extreme caution when snapping those forbidden shots. Two huge police officers were less than impressed when I snapped a couple of photos in the capital, and I had to delete them under their careful supervision. "Consider yourself lucky you are Norwegian," they said. I assume that was a thank you given the large number of Norwegian NGOs that operate in the country.


Source: Logcluster, estimate based on number of flights, 2013

4. Marshall Islands: 4,600 (5th)

Why so few?

The sunsets in Majuro are pretty decent.

Because you didn't know that the country actually exists. It is located in the middle of the Pacific, and includes the Bikini Atoll. So, at least you sort of heard about the country.

Why still visit?
Divers unite. There are over 1,000 different kinds of fish and 250 types of coral around the islands. That makes this the fishiest country in the world. No pun intended. I also woke up between Laura and Rita every morning, and you can too! Laura in the west is the best beach on Majuro while Rita is an area on the other side of the atoll.

What else?
The US performed 67 tests of nuclear bombs here between 1946 and 1958. That includes the biggest nuclear test ever performed, codenamed Castle Bravo, a dry fuel thermonuclear hydrogen bomb. The Atomic Energy Commission regarded Marshall Islands "by far the most contaminated place in the world" in 1956.

Read more: Fishing paradise, diving heaven
Source: UN, 2012

3. Tuvalu: 1,200 (3rd)

Why so few?
The propeller plane from Fiji Airways arrives twice a week and is the only fast way to get in or out. There is also the very occasional cargo slash passenger ship (with empashis on cargo) between Fiji and Tuvalu.

Why still visit?
This country is one of a kind. People are more genuine and more welcoming than in most other places and everything seems more authentic than what is the case in 'the real world'. The friendliness I experienced in Tuvalu is second to none, expect plenty of offers to ride on the back of random people's mopeds.

What else?
Do not forget cash if you ever visit this fascinating country. You mean you have a Black AmEx card? Platinum Visa? Superduper Mega Diamond MasterCard Plus? It just doesn’t matter. This is one of a very few countries in the world where no credit cards are accepted. Bring Australian dollars. Or a begging cup.

Read more: The 'Sinking' Country
Source: UN, 2013

2. Somalia: 400 visitors (2nd)

Somalia.

Why so few?
There is a reason why Mo Farah runs so fast.

Why still visit?
Mogadishu is now considered relatively safe and a lot of businesses have opened or reopened. Several tour companies will sort you out the invitation needed to get a visa on arrival (and they all offer guides with armed guards).

What else?
Terror group al-Shabab is doing its best to take over the country. The government has luckily made progress the last few years, and now several foreign airlines have put Mogadishu on its route maps. Somaliland in the north is formally a part of Somalia, and is the only way to visit the country unless you want your mom to never speak to you ever again (then again, this can be a bonus if the similar effect is achieved for your mother-in-law).

Source: Estimate based on interviews with Somalian tour companies, 2014

1. Nauru: 160 visitors (1st)

Why so few?

Nauru; country with a view.

When did you last see a guide book with Nauru on it? The country is tiny, and comes with less than 10,000 inhabitants on 21 square kilometers. Only Our Airline serves the country with its old Boeing 737.

Why still visit?
It is the least visited country in the world! And you can run around it.

What else?
There are only two hotels in the country, virtually no nightlife and a number of refugees that have been deported from Australia. The country doesn't even have a capital, although Yaren - the biggest village - acts like one.

Read more: The Run Around Country
Source: Crikey, 2011

Who's out?

Syria.

But what about the three countries that were on my former list? North Korea (270,000), Chad (100,000) and Bhutan (125,000) all report an increase in tourist numbers.

Syria would presumably be a likely candidate for the list, but the country had over 5 million visitors in 2011 and tourism numbers have reportedly dropped "over 95 percent". A decline of 98 percent still means over 100,000 tourists in the war-struck and terrorist plagued country.

Of course, you are much more likely to visit countries not on this list. 

The least original countries to visit

The other end of the list provides us with no huge surprises compared to last time, although Spain has passed China and Germany has passed the UK. Russia and Thailand has also made the top ten by replacing Malaysia and Mexico.

1. France 84.7 million tourists
2. USA 69.8 million tourists
3. Spain 60.7 million tourists
4. China 55.7 million tourists
5. Italy 47.7 million tourists
6. Turkey 37.8 million tourists
7. Germany 31.5 million tourists
8. United Kingdom 31.2 million tourists
9. Russia 28.4 million tourists
10. Thailand 26.5 million tourists

What do you know. It took less than 10 months from the Norwegian version of "198" was released in Norway by Det Norske Samlaget until it was made available in English - and now available to buy (see below).

My contacts in the international literature world are sparse, so I did in the end decide to self-publish in the US (using both Create Space and Ingram Spark) after having been given the blessing to do so by my Norwegian publisher. I have translated and adapted it myself, so beware of strange language and the odd odd spelling. The cover is the same, still made by the fantastic designer Johanne Hjorthol.

Buy the book on Amazon (or from other shops below)

What to expect? I'll quote the back cover:

"Gunnar Garfors has visited all 198 countries in the world - as the youngest hobby traveler - and has encountered people, places and situations most can only dream of. The globetrotter has deftly woven his experiences together into a story that takes the reader on an emotive ride and establishes a connection with him and his quest. Expect outrageous tales grouped in original themes, complete with own chapters for every country."

Happy or not with the read, I still appreciate if you leave a review of the book on the website where you purchased it. The suggested retail price is $14.98. That is less than a dime per country! Try travelling cheaper. The eBook version retails at $7.98. You may order the book at your local book shop, in that case make a note of the book's ISBN number 978-0-9964785-9-5 to make the order process easier.

Or order it online: 

The English cover, made by Johanne Hjorthol.

• Create Space
• Amazon UK 
• Amazon US
• Amazon France
• Amazon Germany
• Amazon Italy
• Amazon Japan
• Amazon Spain
• Barnes & Noble
• Super Book Deals
• Smashwords (eBook formats)
• Chegg
• Booksamillion
• CDon Norway
• And others (coming soon)

Norwegian, please

You'd rather want the Norwegian version? Buy it online from one of these fine online book shops:

• Adlibris
• Akademika
• Ark
• Bokkilden
• Norli
• Tanum

Quite a few of you have pre-ordered a version and asked for it to be signed. I am of course still happy to do so, but the costs of sending the book via Norway - the most expensive country in the world - and then on to you - are, let's say, on the high side. Do however let me know if in Oslo, and I will be happy to make your copy non-returnable by adding a rather ugly-looking autograph on page 3.

Yesterday I received the sweetest "pre-order". It read: "I have a secret: my library buys me every book that I want, provided I patiently wait for them to process it. If you let me know when it's in English, I'll get the ****** City Library to purchase it for all the citizens here to read."

Alphabetical country list

If you would like to tick off the countries you have visited, you can find an alphabetical list of all the countries in the world, here (download PDF), to print out.

Photo: Adrian Porras.

Are you a world traveler? Congratulations! That’s the only thing I can say…

This is a guest post by Adrian Porras from Costa Rica. He recently got in touch with me via email: "Greetings! I've been to 5 other countries in my life, all of them in America. I love to travel and take pictures (i don't have a camera though). We definetely live in different worlds. I wish I had an opportunity to travel like you... I would work very hard to do so but in my country that's not possible. I wish you could help me find a way to fullfil my dream of being in all the continents. I can work with you or anyone else for a decent payment... Well, I just wanted to share a dream with you so that you understand how lucky you are."  And lucky I am, no doubt about it. I am from a well developed and democratic country, I have a decent salary and I can chose to spend most of it on what I love most - travelling. The majority of people do not have that option. I challenged Adrian to write a post for garfors.com, from his perspective. Here it is. 

Photo: Adrian Porras.

In general, I never traveled with my family. The reason? Well, I was born in rural Costa Rica and we didn’t have money to travel. Traveling was never high on our list of priorities. And I know that you may be thinking why would someone want to travel when that person lives in paradise?

Because there’s a whole world out there to be conquered! I love to travel and I still don’t have the money to do so… That’s why I’m writing to all of you who have the chance to travel to incredible destinations, to think about how lucky you are…

But please think about this when you go to another country: What about the people living there? Do they dream about traveling to a country like mine? In my case the answer is yes! I don’t care if you think that just because I live in a tropical paradise that has to be the end of the story for me. I’ve never been outside the American Continent but I dream about it all the time! I just look forward to establish connections with countries or cultures outside of America.

I hope to get the possibility to travel all around the world. And preferrably soon, while I am still young and in a reasonably fit shape. Most people I know start travelling around when they are old, but I do not wish to wait that long, maybe having to wait until I am not fit and healthy enough. What stops me in doing it? In countries like mine, you are simply not able to afford it.

Photo: Adrian Porras.

I also want you to know this: It is really a dilemma for people who live in countries like mine, because we get tourists from all around the world all year round, and we dream about being tourists in other countries too.

For some people traveling is a dream that comes true through staying in big hotels, going to big cities and spending a lot of money… For me, traveling is a different idea. I don’t mind going to places no one else plans to visit, to stay in cheap hostels in rural areas or buying my food from local markets. I don’t care if I have to travel long hours by bus or boat, with only a backpack. I just want the opportunity to do it.

Adrian Porras, Costa Rica.

I want to challenge myself, to enjoy new experiences, to truly find myself, to learn about new cultures, to eat exotic foods, to experience new adventures, to take great pictures or to just have fun.
Maybe one day I will write about my dream coming true.

For now, enjoy your lives. Be thankful for how lucky you are and remember that there are millions of people around the world who wish to have at least a tiny bit of the opportunities to travel that you have.

Adrian Porras, Costa Rica

You can reach Adrian by email. 

The richest country in the world is rich on scenery too.

The world's richest countries are much more geographically spread out than the poorest, yet there are no African or South American countries on the World Bank's list. It measures GDP (gross domestic product) in USD per capita divided by the population (midyear). The figures are for 2010-2014.

It may come as no surprise that Norway, my own oil rich country, is on the very top - narrowly beating Qatar, another oil country.

Poor in money, rich in wildlife.

Have you ever been to a truly poor country? I am not going to try to define what is a "truly" poor one, but there are 26 countries with less than one thousand USD in gross domestic product (GDP) per capita. How many of them do you think are in Africa?

It goes without saying that most of the world's poorest countries are in Africa. But how bad is it?

Very bad.

23 of the 26 countries with a GDP per capita of less than 1,000 USD are in fact in Africa, according to the World Bank. It measures GDP in USD per capita divided by the population (midyear). The 2010-2014 figures show that the poorest country in the world is 385 times poorer than the richest.

26. Lesotho: 996 USD

25. Zimbabwe: 936 USD

24. Comoros:861 USD

23. Haiti: 832 USD (third non-African country)

22. Benin: 825 USD

21. Sierra Leone: 788 USD

20. Mali: 766 USD

19. Burkina Faso: 720 USD

18. Nepal: 698 USD (second non-African country)

17. Uganda: 677 USD

16. Afghanistan: 666 USD (first non-African country)

15. Rwanda: 652 USD

14. Togo: 646 USD

13. Mozambique: 619 USD

12. Eritrea: 590 USD

11. Guinea-Bissau: 586 USD

10. Ethiopia: 568 USD

9. Guinea: 550 USD

8. Congo, Democratic Republic: 475 USD

7. Liberia: 461 USD

6. Madagascar: 449 USD

5. Niger: 441 USD

4. The Gambia: 423 USD

3. Central African Republic: 379 USD

2. Burundi:295 USD

1. Malawi: 253 USD

And the other side of the list, where people make almost 400 times more? See the world's richest countries.

There are over 10,000 animals in this photograph from Nkhotakota Game Reserve.

This country might be more known for hunger, floods, corruption and poverty than tourism. But go, and you will be rewarded by beautiful beaches, safaris, natural attractions and friendly locals. And I guarantee you won't meet your neighbour.

Written by my brother Øystein Garfors. 

People travel to Malawi for a variety of reasons, but few tourist are flocking to experience the country’s attractions. This might change. And it should. Lonely Planet added it to its top 10 recommendations for 2014 while Huffington Post proclaimed it the winner of its “top emerging travel hotspots for 2015”. I have lived there for 14 months and made 10 visits. That made me fall in love with the beautiful country and its beautiful people.

Malawi has had for several years had the dubious honour of topping The World Bank's “countries with lowest GDP per capita” list. Norway, my country, is the richest with a GDP per capita that is 384 times higher than Malawi. There the GDP per capita is as low as 253 US dollars.

But thanks to the countless smiles that meet you, the poverty doesn’t show. And every time I return home from a visit, I am ashamed of us Norwegians. Why? I dare to say that we are introvert, self-centred and shy. At our best we might share a modest nod to strangers.

Not so in the little African country, the size of Pennsylvania. Malawians greet all visitors with a beaming smile and with genuine, disarming warmth. They will go out of their way to be friendly and helpful to anyone who honours them by visiting their country. And one little trick will make them smile even broader, if that is even possible; learn a few greeting phrases in Chichewa, their language.

Say “muli bwanji?” (how are you?) and “dili bwino kaya inu” (I'm fine, and you?), and you will be adopted as a lifelong friend on the spot. But there is more. I will give you another five good reasons, why Malawi better come high on your next gotta-go-to list.

1. Lilongwe

Malawi is a landlocked country, making it a bit difficult to reach. If you fly in, you will arrive in the capital, Lilongwe. The dirty unorganized city comes with few facilities for the keen shopper, the hungry gourmet traveller or the sophisticated night owl. During daytime the roads are packed with 4WD NGO owned Toyota Prados and hawkers trying to make ends meet.

In my opinion Lilongwe is actually best avoided. Except for getting that genuine feel of a real and chaotic African city. And most travellers will have to spend at least a night or two upon arrival or departure, so make the best of it. The main market in the old town is huge and interesting place to get lost during the day. Just watch your belongings. And if you are into dodgy nightlife, Lilongwe is your new hotspot for years to come. There are fun discos and nightclubs where you can exhaust yourselves until next morning. Just don't judge them by the volume. The worst ones usually play the loudest music. If you stay centrally in the Old town, you are safe to walk as long as it is light. I'd recommend to go by taxi after dark, and especially when looking for nightlife.

And despite of Lilongwe's drawbacks, this is actually where you will find the best restaurants in the country.

2. Senga Bay

Senga Bay Beach is a weekend retreat for NGO (non-government organization) workers and the wealthy Malawians, primarily based in Lilongwe. A broad stretch of sandy beach is home to a range of hotels, everything from luxurious resorts to small lodges and campsites. The availability of facilities, mixed with village life and fishermen at work make this a place with a great atmosphere. If you get bored it is only 16 kilometres to the town of Salima where you can visit the markets or have a game of pool or a drink with the locals in one of the many bars. Remember that 9 out of 10 girls you will meet in pubs all over Malawi will be there for work, and that few of them are with good health. Be warned. Senga Bay's proximity to the airport makes it my favourites end stop on my way home. If you end up at Cool Runnings, a brilliant but simple lodge, please keep it a secret.

3. Lake Ilala ferry service

This motor ship has plied Lake Malawi since 1951. Go as a passenger, I promise that it will be a remarkable experience. Starting Fridays from Monkey Bay in the south it continues up the coast to Nkhata Bay, Likoma and onwards to several other interesting stops. You will even get to visit the Mozambiqian side of the lake. It always gets lively during stopovers where sometimes hundreds of people will show up to witness and take part in the hustle. The ship is often late and has even broken down on several occasions, but remember TIA – This Is Africa – such experiences just add to the enjoyment of the ride. Expect to travel together with chickens, fish, goats, locals and maybe a few tourists. Ilala is 172 feet (52 meters) long and can accommodate up to 365 passengers. In first class, on the top floor, you will naturally be more comfortable, but see fewer smiling people. The majority of the passengers find themselves cramped together under deck. If you are white, chances are close to 100% that you will be the only one onboard. Book ahead to secure a bed in one of the 7 cabins. You should otherwise bring warm clothing for the night and sun block for the day.

4. Lake of Stars music festival

The biggest art event of the year takes place every year in September and October in beautiful surroundings somewhere around Lake Malawi. In 2015 the 10th edition will take place in Mangochi. Look forward to three days of great music, art and performances by local and international artists. October is the warmest month of the year, so if air conditioning is your cup of tea, make sure to book a room ahead. Earlier this year, Time Out magazine named Lake of Stars as having the most beautiful festival location in the world. Just sayin'.

5. Nkhotakota

Welcome to what is allegedly Africas biggest village south of Sahara! Nkhotakota (Chichewa for "Corner Corner") is both a town and one of the districts in the Central Region of Malawi. It is on the shore of Lake Malawi and one of the ports of call for M/S Ilala. Nkhotakota is a great place to get a feel of real Malawian everyday life. The population of the town feels like 5,000 but is actually estimated to be closer to 50,000. The town is my Malawian hometown, and where I travel for business. It has several uncrowded jewels that are waiting to be explored by you. Just to stay, observe and take part in daily life at the market, the beach or a local pub will make your day. I promise. You will experience great vibes and most people are up for a chat.

Nkhotakota Youth Organization is a superb source for further exploration. They run a Cultural Centre, a vocational skills school and a rural electrification company where you can volunteer for shorter or longer periods. They have a pleasant outdoor restaurant where they arrange concerts and the occasional music festival. They will also arrange tours in the district for you. Such as sending you off to Bua River Lodge, a good place inside the game reserve to chill out while waiting for crocodiles and elephants. Beach bums should head for beach side lodge Fish Eagle Bay where you can relax, kayak or simply down a MGT (Malawi Gin with Tonic) or two.

6. Safari

You may not associate Malawi with safaris, but this is actually often the main reason why people travel here. The country has never had the reputation of being a prime safari destination like Tanzania or Zambia, but this is about to change. Let me just mention brand new wildlife lodges, initiatives to stop pouching and governmental plans to improve the parks

In Liwonde National park you can for instance get a 2 hour boat safari for less than 20 USD. Last time I saw plenty of large animals like hippos, crocodiles, antelopes and elephants. There are also all sorts of animals at Nkhotakota game reserve, but they are harder to spot as the the vegetation makes for some pretty good hiding places. This also makes for spectacular and exciting walking safaris with some of the wildlife rangers. Both Tongole Wilderness Lodge and Bua River Lodge offer quality accommodation in locations that make you feel like you are further from rest of the world than ever.

So why visit Malawi?

You mean you are still not convinced? Tourism is also a good way to support a poor country since most of the companies contribute greatly to the local communities. And in addition to the handful of tips above, much more is on offer. The friendly and easy-going people are still the main reason to go. They will inspire you to continue to shake hands of unknown people even upon your return home. You are likely to pick up the habit of asking “how are you?”, “where do you come from?” and “how are you family?" and actually want to hear their response.

And I am pretty certain that a trip to Malawi will inspire you to share more smiles and pay more attention to the people around you than to the overflow of social media updates. At least for a short while. It won't take long until you will want to go back again, either. Enjoy!

Getting there and around 

Øystein in Lake Malawi.

Lilongwe is not in any way a hub. It is barely connected to any, even. You will have to transit in at least one other African city. KLM/Kenya Airlines flies daily from Amsterdam through Nairobi, while South African takes you there directly from Johannesburg and Ethiopian does the same from Addis Abeba. Economy flight tickets from Europe range from 670 to 1100 USD return.

Public transportation is poor, crowded and irregular. I would recommend renting a car, or getting the lodge where you will stay to arrange for a pick up from the airport. Most are more than willing to combine a visit to town with meeting a guest.

You can go - and make a change for 1001 families

But how about experiencing Malawi in a totally different way? I’m involved in a non-profit company that provides solar energy solutions to locals and businesses in one of the poorest regions in Malawi. Less than 3 percent of the households there have access to electricity. Within the next year we aim to provide lights to 1001 new households in the poorest areas of villages. To help us achieve our goal, please consider contributing to our crowd-funding campaign. One of the bonuses is the possibility to sign up for a trip to the country in October, 2015. 2,700 USD will include flights (economy class) from a European capital city and accommodation in a double room during ten exciting days. We will bring you to Nkhotakota to learn more about our projects, you will relax by the lake, go on a safari and really get a good feel of the real Malawi. But the best bit is that that you will support installation of lights to several poor families.

For more details of this trip and other ways to support, please visit our crowd funding site.

Relevant links

Nkhotakota Youth Organisation
Fish Eagle Bay, Nkhotakota
Bua River Lodge 
Tongole Wilderness Lodge
Hippo View Lodge, Liwonde National Park
Cool Runnings, Senga Bay
Ilala Ferry timetable (from May 2015)
Lake of Stars Music Festival
List of companies doing Safaris in Malawi

I travelled to 19 countries in 24 hours with my mates Tay-young Pak and Øystein Djupvik.

I have been to all 198 countries in less than 10 years, while maintaining a full-time job throughout - and managing to write a book about the mad and often outrageous experiences. In Norway that means 5 weeks of holiday annually plus around 2 weeks worth of national holidays. So, how in the world is it possible to visit every country in such a relatively short amount of time?

Local modes of transport come highly recommended.

Here are some tips on how to travel extensively while maintaining studies or a full-time job.

1.You can travel quite far on a weekend. And there are 52 weekends a year. I have, at the busiest of times travelled over 30 weekends in a year. Even I enjoy the odd weekend at home.

2.Take time off work instead of accepting overtime pay. Then take out those hours before or after a weekend or a holiday trip to extend your available travelling time.

3.Heading back Sunday night is great, especially if you can sleep on the plane (if not, consider taking a sleeping pill). You will then land back home early in the morning, and you can pop by your house for a shower (unless there are such facilities in the office) and go straight to work. I have had trips where I have visited Seoul, New York and Sydney for less than 24 hours before returning to Norway. Of course the journey to and from Australia took much longer than the stay itself, but it was exhilarating to do such a crazy trip just for a weekend. I have naturally been there before and after to explore the country properly.

In Iran.

4.Travel with hand-luggage only. It is lighter and saves you valuable time in both ends, which is a bonus when you don’t have much time to start with. It is more environmentally friendly to travel light and you can use a lack of multiple outfits to do some shopping in another country with a different selection of clothes on offer. You will furthermore be more relaxed, and you will look more like a local than a tourist with a big suitcase. There is also less to worry about, more flexible and cheaper (on airlines that charge extra to check-in luggage).

5.Use a seat as a bed. Whether it is a plane, a bus, a boat or a train, you might as well go from A to B while you are sleeping. You will save on accommodation costs and wake up in a new place.

6.If you travel for work, ask to book the tickets to your destination the weekend before, then return on the Sunday the weekend after. You can then buy extra tickets on your own and explore one new country before the work event and another country the weekend after.

7.Set aside weekends or long weekends long time in advance and trawl the Internet for cheap tickets.

An old Danish ferry in Gabon.

8.Take "an extra holiday" during your holiday. Chances are that you will have to transfer anyway. Instead of waiting for hours in the airport, book an extra day or two there, and get to see one extra country. You might even like this second choice destination better than your original destination.

9.Do this both ways, and you add yet another country (of course just staying in an airport doesn't really do justice to any country - and I wouldn't count that as a visit).

10.Fly via a country instead of buying a direct flight. Then stay for some extra time, or explore for a few hours. Non-direct tickets are usually cheaper anyway.

11.This might come as a surprise to you, but the world is round. Travel around it instead of going back and forth. If you have to go to another continent for work or holiday, you might as well continue around the world to see some new places. You might need to take some extra days off work, but you will get to see countries and places very far away without using too much extra holiday time. Most of the travel time will anyhow be work. There are a lot of low cost airlines in many countries, so you can travel around the world by booking a lot of relatively cheap one-way flights. The three big alliances also offer round the world tickets - flexible ones even.

12.Visit 19 countries in 24 hours. We did and set a world record. Admittedly not much time in each country, though…

13.Visit five continents in one day. The same problems as above, really, although we travelled the same route back and spent much more time in each country. It was later admitted as a Guinness World Record.

14.Take your holiday immediately before or after a work trip. Your employer will likely let you book the flight there or back a week or two earlier or later as long as it doesn’t cost anything extra.

15.Travel by bus, train or boat instead of a plane – if you can. That will often take you through more countries. Just be sure to stop in each of them and explore. Driving through a country doesn’t really count…

Nauru's Our Airline is not a member of any alliances.

16.Check out the map in advance. There may be a country (or several) nearby that you can visit on a day-trip.

17. Most people should take several holidays per year, rather than just one as they will then have earned more money that they can use to travel to new countries. Unless, of course you have saved up money. You will then benefit from rather taking one long holiday as you can get away with only one return flight ticket and rather travel with trains, buses and other modes of transport, locally - and get to see a number of countries on one trip.

18. To get a European rail pass (Interrail) is another way to visit a lot of countries in a short period of time, without spending a lot of money.

19. Don't be a sheep. Dare be different. Travel to unusual places and avoid queues, crowded flights, expensive tickets, fully booked hotels and having to meet your obnoxious neighbour in the restaurant.

On Hebbelille, my brother's boat outside Florø, Norway. Photo: Øystein Garfors.

The pristine Førde Fjord as seen from the mountain they want to demolish and dump in the fjord.

Please contribute.

Any gift is most welcome and highly appreciated. 

I don't envy Cristiano Ronaldo, I don't envy Bill Gates, I don't envy Barrack Obama I only do envy Gunnar Garfors. @garfors

— Cenk (@cengowski) August 11, 2015

Well, at least I think this is the best Tweet of all times. No wonder, really, if you know who Barrack Obama, Bill Gates and Cristiano Ronaldo are. Then again, who would envy their high-profiled, assumingly semi-stressful (although decently paid) positions when you can rather travel the world and soak up experiences, tastes, feelings and atmospheres? I had to find out who was behind this Tweet.

But who was the guy who wrote the Tweet? @Cenk is Cenk Usluoğlu, a 28 year old bank worker from Turkey. Cenk has been married for two years and picked up an appetite for travelling while living one year as an exchange student in Poland. He has since seen a lot of Eastern Europe, but not much more.

"As a Turkish citizen I have to spend a lot of time and money on legal procedures related to obtaining visas and this annoys me a lot!" he explained to me.

Sounds familiar, hey?

But what about the Tweet - how did it come about?

"I read about you in an article and I said "Oh, my god! This guy already did what I would ask from the genie in a bottle," Cenk said.

Visiting many different cultures and countries certainly comes recommended. The story about my travels and the book about them has already attracted international interest in dozens of countries.

You might want to follow Cenk Usluoğlu on Twitter. I already do.

Yes, you should visit The Comoros too.

The last two weeks have been rather manic. I have amazingly enough received literally hundreds of calls, emails, and messages from media on every continent, except Antarctica. Most of them want to hear about my book, usually with some travel tips thrown in.

Just another day in Tehran.

My extensive travelling has naturally generated some experience, and I have here tried to collect various updated travel tips.

The basics
Over 30 travel tips that will take you through many different aspects of travel.

How to find cheap flights
The title pretty much says it all.

Travel hacks to visit many countries efficiently
You will find ways to increase your country collection fast, but please, please, please do take the time to explore the countries you visit too. Collecting countries is not like collecting postage stamps or coins - you should take your time to enjoy and explore the countries too.

Please let me know if you have other tips you would like to share, if you have exciting, horrible or fascinating experiences to tell or if you have any questions.

And don't forget the #CountryChallenge - how many countries can you - or a friend - visit? Some of you might want to figure out how to visit Antarctica too.